Good table that will mount a 48 inch grooming arm and give access to all of the dog. The square arms are superior to the round ones
Oster home animal clipper from Care a lot. Any other clipper requires a #10 or 1.5mm or Medium blade designation.
Black and Decker Wizard with Ѕ inch sanding drums, 100 grit from Home Depot
I personally like 80 grit, particularly for larger nails.
Sheddr’ comb, large loop
4 inch slicker brush
Mars fine stripping comb
7-8 inch combo comb Fine/Medium
Ice on Ice conditioner.
30/inch thinning shears
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May 24th, 2006
The best training equipment in the world is of little use if your training techniques are not appropriate for you or your dog, and if the relationship between you and your dog needs some work.
When selecting training equipment, you need to consider some factors:
1. Does the equipment allow for quiet signals easily perceived by the dog?
For the dog to perceive a signal from you, he must feel it, hear it, or see it. Most training equipment relies upon touch and therefore upon the dog’s physical sensitivity. Touch sensitivity can vary from breed to breed, individual to individual dog, as well as being highly dependent upon the situation. A calm dog at home may yelp in anguish if you so much as step on a toe, but in an excited state feel none of the leash signals you send. Be sure to choose equipment that your dog actually perceives as information. This may require several equipment choices depending upon the activity and/or situation.
As a predator, the dog is “hard wired” to react quickly to movement. The canine eye actually contains more of the components that detect movement than does the human eye. Beware of any equipment which necessitates large hand or body movements in order to be effective. Your dog’s brain will have to sort out that movement before it can work on figuring out what you were trying to communicate.
2. Does the equipment achieve the desired results?
If your dog continues to pull, ignore signals, choke himself or tune you out, you may need to switch equipment, as well as examine your handling practices and training method - you are not achieving your desired results.
While this may seem like common sense, it is astounding how many handlers continue to use equipment that frustrates them and/or the dog. By the same token, handlers often stick with a training methodology that is not effective for the dog, the handler or both.
Keep in mind the wonderful saying: “The response you get is the communication you gave.” Forget intentions - look at reality, and if you are not achieving the desired results, do something else!
3. What effect does the equipment have on you?
While it is currently in vogue to train with thick leather leads, the mere act of holding such a lead can limit your ability to use your hands and arms in refined, subtle ways, much as a thick child’s crayon inhibits fine penmanship. Remember that such heavy leads are popular because a very forceful correction can be given without hurting your hands, and without losing the full force of the correction to the dog. There are other ways to train. Softness and subtle in your lead signals is possible only when you can utilize fine motor control - instead of heavy, large movements, you can use fluttering or pulsing signals that originate with just a twitch of a finger or two. Such signals are welcomed, heard and understood by the dog.
Beyond limiting your fine motor control, holding a thick lead and/or holding your hand(s) in a clenched fist - a typical “training” position which readies you to give “corrections” - also affects your breathing. To test this for yourself, simply sit for a moment with your hands soft and open on your lap or at your sides. Pay attention to your breathing for a few breaths. Now, hold your hand(s) in your typical training position as if you had a lead in your hands - hold your imaginary lead with your usual grip. Now check your breathing. What breathing??!!! Check a little further - you may find tension in your jaw, neck and/or shoulders as well. How does this affect your emotional state? Do you feel calm, relaxed or focused? Or do you feel increasingly anxious or tense - two normal responses to interfering with your breathing? Imagine how this affects your training on many levels.
Still holding your imaginary lead, soften your hands so that your fingers are light and soft, as if you were attempting to contain a butterfly within your hand. How does this affect your breathing? Check the tension in your jaw - it should be disappearing as you relax your hands.
Your choice of equipment, as well as how you use that equipment, will have profound effects on your emotions, your patience and the results you get in your training session. Choose wisely, and with an awareness of the impact the equipment will have on both ends of the lead.
Can you be subtle?
One of the hallmarks of a novice in any activity is the rather awkward, overly large use of signals and movements. Compare the movements of someone just learning to ride a horse with the almost imperceptible movements and cues of the Olympic rider, or the lead handling of a novice handler with an experienced trainer. Unfortunately, these two images are not necessarily equal examples. In the first case, a beginning rider flails around, using large hand movements to “steer” their horse in very basic ways, while the Olympic level rider may achieve incredibly sophisticated responses with signals so subtle as to be virtually undetectable. The horse and rider seem to dance together in some pre-agreed fashion.
In the second example, you will not see too much of a difference between the typical novice handler and the experienced dog trainer in terms of subtlety. Oh, the corrections may be given with more precision and power, and no one ends up being wrapped up in the lead, but subtlety is not a quality that is taught or even sought by experienced trainers. I remember watching some of the top obedience competitors at a Gaines Regional and being surprised that at such a level of experience, there were still gross movements and forceful corrections. The only thing that set the novices apart from the “pros” was timing. The techniques were not refined to any great degree.
Mastery of any skill should include a progressive degree of subtlety. I feel this is especially true when our partners are dogs - the masters of subtle communications. Do yourself and your dog a favor - see how subtle you can get, and still achieve results. You may surprise yourself when a twitch of a finger is sufficient to “correct” a dog, or when a slight head turn is enough to give a signal across the room. Such subtlety requires precision and clarity in your signals, respect for and trust in the dog’s willingness to respond, and mastery of your self.
Is it worth it? You bet. For the casual onlooker, subtlety of signal adds an air of magic to all that you and your dog do together. For yourself, you may find, as I do, that there is a genuine joy in both giving and receiving the kind of willing and mutual attentiveness that is the hallmark of a great team.
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May 24th, 2006
Many people ask “ Why do I need Pet Insurance?” There are some reasons….
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Peace of Mind
No one plans on their pet getting sick or being in an accident. With Pet Insurance, you don’t have to worry about being faced with unexpected medical bills. You will be able to provide the best possible care for your pet when the unexpected happens.
In many European countries - like the UK and Sweden - insuring your pet is just as common as insuring your home or car. It’s second nature. Today, responsible pet ownership is about more than loving them - it means being able to provide the right environment, stimulation, lifestyle, exercise and activity levels, nutrition and health care for your pet.
We all have the best intentions when it comes to saving money for emergencies, however it seems like something always comes up and we’re back to square one.
Pet insurance is a way to budget and control the cost of keeping your pet healthy. You’ll always know your monthly costs so you won’t be caught unprepared in the case of an emergency. You’ll be free to provide your pet with your love and attention in times of need.
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Avoiding Difficult Decisions
Did you know that many pets do not receive potentially life-saving treatments because the cost is too great for the owners to bear?
Pet insurance allows you to provide your pet with the best possible care. Decisions regarding treatment are no longer complicated by financial restrictions. Treatments that may otherwise be unattainable can be provided without a second thought. Your primary concern becomes the health of your pet, not the cost of care.
When you insure your pets before they develop health problems, you are completely covered if they develop anything in the future.
With Pet Insurance, your pets will be covered for any conditions that do not exist before enrolling or that arise after the waiting period.
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Protection from the Unexpected
When people choose their dog or cat, they often plan for how compatible that species or breed will be with their lifestyle.
However, few people budget for the common illnesses and medical problems associated with their pet’s type or breed, or for the additional accidents or mishaps that occur over the course of an average pet’s life; things like ear infections, fights with other pets and swallowing foreign objects.
Pet insurance is your way of preparing for the costs of these unexpected occurrences, so you can go on with your life as quickly and easily as possible.
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May 28th, 2006
If you decide that you have neither the time, inclination or physical ability to groom your dog, there are dozens of professional groomers who can do the job.
Selection of a groomer should be done with at least as much care as choice of a barber or hair stylist, for you must be pleased with the results of the “haircut” and the dog must be treated with care while at the shop.
Many veterinarians have incorporated grooming into their clinics, so you may start there. If your veterinarian is not associated with a groomer, he may have a list of recommended groomers. Other sources of recommendations include friends who own pets, boarding kennels that don’t have their own grooming service, pet supply stores, shelters, and purebred breeders.
If you own a Poodle or a terrier, the selection may be a bit more difficult, for these breeds have special grooming requirements that take more time and expertise.
After getting some recommendations, make a few telephone calls and ask questions about services and costs, pick-up and delivery, and use of tranquilizers to calm the dog. Most groomers will not use tranquilizers; however they will handle a dog that has been tranquilized by the veterinarian or owner if they know that the drug has been given. If your dog is geriatric or has a chronic medical problem, ask about special handling.
Visit the groomers who answered your questions without the dog. Make sure the shop is well-lit, that the groomer and assistants handle the dogs gently, that old or arthritic dogs are treated with special consideration, and that the shampoos and flea and tick products meet your needs.
Grooming is a skilled trade that takes years of perfecting to get right. There are the five basic clips - body contour, hand scissoring (poodle, bichon), the bladed body/fuller leg (schnauzer), short-legged terrier (westie, cairn terrier, scottie), long-legged terrier (wire fox, airdale), and sporting clip (cocker, springer). And then there are the myriad variations on these themes that make up both the extreme end (show clips), to the casual end (pet and so-called “puppy” clips).
The groomer must be skilled with both shear and clipper blade, dog handling, nail trimming, dematting tools, body washing and, of course, blowdrying techniques. She must be able to quickly analyze a pet’s skin and coat condition to select the proper shampoo and conditioner. There are as many kinds of treatments for dogs as their are for your own hair - from hypoallergenic oatmeal brands, to medicated dandruff shampoos, to those designed to brighten white fur or deodorize strong musky dog odors. She must be able to assess the condition of mats in the fur and recommend a proper cut to work with the owner’s own daily care regime.
Groomers can help an owner with questions about proper canine nutrition (a poor diet shows up on the skin first), show how to properly brush out the coat, and even help the owner develop a proper toothbrushing routine for their favorite furry friend.
Since the groomer works intimately with each dog over a series of hours, they can alert the owners to changes in the dog’s behaviours and body. Groomers might be the first to notice an oozing sore which might require a vet’s attention, cut a dew claw before it can grow around and into the footpad, note changes in warts and old wounds, and pull out thorns from doggie toes that could have become staph infections in time.
A really good groomer will also try to ensure your dog has a nice day at the salon. Being away from their owners can be stressful for pooches, and not every dog enjoys a good bath and blowout. They might be foot-shy, which makes clipping nails problematic. Head-shy dogs don’t like clippers or shears near their faces. It’s the groomer’s job to help the dog feel comfortable with the process, by using warm water, a gentle but firm hand, and soothing words through the process.
Many dogs come to enjoy being groomed. After all, they ARE being lavished with individual attention, something all canines crave. If an owner uses the same groomer each time, so much the better for the dog, who develops a bond with their own personal “hairdresser”.
Dogs who are clean, dry and looking good always know it. They act happier, more light and alert, than when they arrive. When the pet parent arrives to pick up their “child”, it’s always very exciting and rewarding - the dog is happy to see their family, be smelled and held and fawned over.
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May 28th, 2006
Myth: An indoor pet won’t have many health problems.
Fact: When we think of the unexpected, we instantly think of accidents. However, over 75% of all claims are for illnesses and not accidents. Research shows that indoor pets are no less susceptible to these illnesses.
Myth: I should wait until my pet is older to purchase pet insurance.
Fact: Young pets are like babies and toddlers - they lack full coordination. They are more likely to experience injuries, or get into trouble. They lack the perception and judgment that comes from experience, and they are so small they don’t know when they’re underfoot. It’s always better to enroll them when they’re young, especially before pre-existing conditions develop, or accidents and illnesses occur.
Myth: Instead of pet insurance, I can just start saving now for my pet’s illness or accident.
Fact: The intention is right, but if an emergency occurs in the next few months and you’ve only saved a few dollars, you won’t have the money needed for treatments or surgery. Most people aren’t prepared for the actual cost of veterinary emergency care, or adequately prepared to put aside that much money at one time.
Myth: Pet insurance is much more expensive than my health insurance.
Fact: Pet insurance is actually much less expensive than human health insurance. Human health insurance plans are really only providing you with extended health care benefits. As employers typically pay 50% - 100% of an employee’s extended health insurance coverage, we are unaware of the real costs associated with our health care.
Myth: There’s no such thing as ‘preventive care’ coverage.
Fact: Petplan offers pet parents the choice of selecting a plan that includes preventive care along with accident and illness coverage or a plan that provides only accident and illness coverage. Either option is a great decision - it really depends on you and your pet.
If you regularly schedule and complete 4 or 5 of the preventive care treatments outlined, then it makes good financial sense to enroll in our Champion plan for your cat or dog. This would allow you to budget all of your pet’s ongoing health care costs through your insurance plan on a scheduled basis and get the added benefits of accident and illness coverage.
Myth: I should wait to get pet health insurance until I discuss it with my family.
Fact: For example, Petplan offers a 10-day money-back guarantee, so it pays to enroll now and get your waiting periods started. You’re covered for accidents in just 48 hours, and you have 10 days to discuss it with your family and be sure about the plan you chose.
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May 30th, 2006
Healthy skin is certainly a consideration for a well-groomed dog, and healthy skin begins with a good diet. Again, the choices are legion. The rule of thumb is thus: If your dog does well on the food you buy, if his skin and coat are healthy, if he has energy and enjoys life, if he is maintaining his optimum weight, if his intestines are working well, if the food is highly digestible and thus leaves little manure to clean up, keep on keepin’ on. But if the dog’s energy level is low, if his coat is dull and his skin dry and itchy or sore, if a vet check shows no thyroid or other medical condition to account for the anomalies, consider switching the diet or supplementing with fatty acids.
Grooming is essential for healthy skin, not so much for keeping it clean, but for making the owner aware of any problems that may be developing. Flea allergies can cause severe skin problems, so daily examination of the dog during flea season is a must. Contact allergies can also cause skin to break out. Irritated skin leads to scratching, which can open the skin to staphylococcus infections. An ounce of prevention is definitely worth a pound of cure for the dog and the pocketbook the antibiotics for skin infections are among the most expensive medications, and the cost of treatment can be dollars a day for a couple of weeks or longer.
Skin irritations and infections can crop up overnight, so keep a close eye on the situation. Groom daily for fleas and ticks if Lad has had a problem. Use a fine-toothed comb to check for fleas, then flick the tiny insects into a container of warm, soapy water. Remove ticks with protected fingers and drop in a vial of alcohol. Treat the house for fleas as well; modern controls for these pests use genetically altered natural insecticides, growth inhibitors, and drying agents that are both environmentally friendly and less toxic to people and pets.
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June 5th, 2006
Cats spend over 10% of their waking hours grooming themselves. Usually this involves licking the fur and getting dirt out from between their toes. Although cats are fairly autonomous with their grooming, they definitely benefit from human intervention.
The key ways humans can help with cat grooming are through brushing and nail cutting. A daily brushing your cat’s fur will help keep it shiny and tangle free. Start brushing your cat when it is a small kitten so it gets used to it. Occasionally you meet cats that are tactile defensive, that is to say they don’t really like being touched OR it takes them a long time until they want to be touched. Regular brushing helps reduce this phenomenon. However, most cats love a gentle brushing and it helps build the bond between cat and owner. Nail cutting is also very important and should be started as early as possible so that the cat tolerates the experience easily. A food reward after the cutting is a great idea. Keep the sessions short. Maybe only do one paw at a time to start. Remember, take the paw and press under the pad so that the nail comes out. Cut the nail tip and stay away from the pink vein (or quick) because it is sensitive and will hurt if you cut into it. It is easy to see this vein through the cat’s translucent nails. Ask your vet for a demo if this is your first time cutting your cat’s nails and you feel nervous.
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June 5th, 2006
1. For the first grooming session, use a soft-bristled brush. Call your cat in a cheery tone and reward him with a small treat. Start at the tip of the fur and gently work deeper into his coat to prevent the brush from getting trapped in tangles or clumps.
2. Always brush in the direction of your cat’s coat. Going against the grain can irritate her skin and make her want to flee the scene when she sees you pulling out the grooming supplies.
3. To make cleanup easy, slip a piece of old pantyhose over the head of a brush before grooming. The bristles will poke through, an all you have to do is pull up on the pantyhose to discard the hair.
4. Keep brushes in various places in your house. That way, your cat can be treated to a spur-of-the-moment grooming without your having to hunt for a brush.
5. Use two-sided tape to attach plastic self-grooming combs along the lower corner of wall. These products permit your pet to rub against the plastic bristles and get a grooming any time she desires.
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June 6th, 2006
- Two small washcloths (one for washing head and face area, the other for soaping the body) two large towels for drying.
- One cup container for pouring water over the cat until the coat is wet all the way to the skin.
- Shampoo: Pet shampoos are developed to react better to the cat’s fur. Two shampoos are needed for normal coated cats. Three or more shampoos are needed for oily or long-coated cats. A tearless baby shampoo is needed for the face and head area (use one washcloth for this area only). The second washcloth is used to make suds throughout the body and feet.
- A two-quart container for final rinse.
- Vinegar.
- Toenail clippers for clipping claws.
- Q-tips for cleaning ears. BE GENTLE! Just clean wax from the outer area of the ear.
- A camera to snap a hilarious photo of your soaking wet cat.
You can find more information about cat grooming on www.hartz.com
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June 6th, 2006
Make sure the bathing room is warm and the bathing water is tepid. You want to make this as pleasant as possible for your cat. Sometimes it helps to put an extra towel at the bottom of the sink so the cat will be able to stand easier. A hand sprayer makes the job of rinsing the body coat much easier too.
- Begin by clipping nails and expurgating the anal glands. This is done by holding the cat’s tail up by one hand. With the other hand place your thumb externally over one anal sac and your finger over the other. Press in and the contents will be expressed through the anal sac openings. (This can also be handled by the vet, if you feel this is out of your league).
- Pour tepid water over the coat until you can see that the coat is wet down to the skin.
- Drain the sink and shampoo. Apply the tearless shampoo on a washcloth and gently rub it over the face, being careful to avoid the eye area. The eyes should only be washed with a damp washcloth and no shampoo.
- Rinse thoroughly.
- Apologize for torturing your little furball.
- Shampoo again.
- Rinse thoroughly.
- With a longhaired breed you might want to shampoo a third time. Then rinse, and use a coat conditioner.
- Rinse with a mixture of one cup vinegar to two quarts of water.
- Rinse one last time with clear water.
Use large towels to remove as much water as possible and then set the cat up in a warm room until the coat is fully dry. IF your cat is a longhair, you’ll want to brush as soon as you’ve hand-dried the cat to prevent the coat from matting. If your longhaired cat will tolerate a blow dryer (good luck), the coat will look even nicer, but try using the dryer on the lowest setting in the beginning. A bath and a blow dry may seem like some sort of spa to you, but to your cat it can feel quite the opposite
Cats with extremely short coats like Siamese, Burmese, Cornish and Devon Rex can get along with few or no baths. Even with these breeds, occasionally wiping the face with a damp cloth is a nice treat. Think of it as giving your cat a facial. Longhaired cats and other shorthairs with dense coats need to be bathed every 1-3 months to keep things clean. Persians should to be bathed at least once a month. Bathing, brushing/combing, and clipping nails are the three most important ways you can help your cat stay well groomed. The earlier you start this process, the more agreeable your cat will be to it her whole life.
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June 6th, 2006
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