Archive for June, 2006
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A recent survey indicated that 40% of America’s pet population is overweight. If you or your veterinarian feel that your pet would benefit from a reduction in body weight, this discussion should help you to understand how to help overweight dogs lose weight. Weight loss for cats is more complicated and should not be done without a veterinarian’s supervision. Very simply put, if your pet is overweight it is taking in (eating) more calories than it needs. Set all excuses aside … excessive weight in an otherwisehealthy pet is a direct result of consuming unnecessary amounts of food. If your pet is overweight it should be examined for heart, thyroid or other metabolic disorders. A detailed history should be taken with emphasis on frequency of exercise, amount and type of food being provided and other parameters relative to calorie requirements. To begin let us set the record straight on some common misconceptions regarding obesity. Healthy dogs and cats do not need to eat every day; the pet food industry has painted the picture for us of the “eager eater.”
The impression is that a happy, healthy pet will eat every meal with gusto. Please do not try to entice your pet to eat if it isn’t interested. If you provide a good quality food and a liberal amount of water, your pet will eat when it wants and do better than having to eat when you want. Another common myth maintains that spaying or neutering causes obesity. This is absolutely false. Any pet, neutered or not, will gain weight if it is over fed relative to its energy requirements.
The surgical procedure may slightly slow the pet’s metabolism, as will normal aging, and it will then burn calories off more slowly; therefore it may require less food. Keep in mind the surgery doesn’t cause the weight gain, eating too much does and you have control over that.
Let us explore four typical settings we veterinarians encounter when presented with a pet that is overweight. See if any of these sound familiar! The quotes are the usual responses pet owners give us when we politely suggest that “perhaps your pet would benefit by losing some weight”…
- Type I: THE NIBBLER: “But doctor, she hardly eats a thing.” This pet probably has food out for it all day and nibbles a little at a time. When dinner time comes and the pet picks at the left-overs, it will take the choicest morsels, leave the rest, and still appear not to have eaten very much. However over a 24 hour period “THE NIBBLER’S” total calorie intake is excessive and it gains weight.
- Type II: THE BEGGAR: “But doctor, this rascal won’t keep quiet unless she gets her treats. And she won’t go to sleep at night until she gets her little dish of ice cream.” What has happened here is that the pet has discovered that the more noise and fussing it produces the more likely it is to be rewarded for this behavior. The owner finally “gives in” to keep the pet quiet and the pet sees the food as a reward. In effect the owner is training “The Beggar” by rewarding its behavior. It turns into a fun game but the pet’s health may suffer if obesity is the result.
- Type III: THE GOOD DOG: “But doctor, she’s such a good dog we don’t want her to go hungry.” This pet became overweight because the owner’s signal of affection for their pet has focused on feeding. (Usually each family member secretly offers treats to the pet…and doesn’t know the other family members are doing exactly the same thing!) It is an understandable trait but unfortunately for the pet it can be a case of too much of a good thing. The owners’ method of showing affection should be directed more toward physical activity than feeding. Think “FETCH” not “FOOD”!
- Type IV: THE GOURMET DOG: “But doctor, she just refuses to eat dog food.” In this case the pet has trained its owners to feed it such things as chicken, liver, ice cream, cookies, etc. Although most table scraps are just fine to feed, (stay away from bones of any kind!) this pet has been given a choice of what it wants to eat and has chosen certain people food.
If a child is given a choice it would probably choose cake and candy over vegetables, and its health would suffer. This Gourmet Dog usually overeats because it isn’t getting a proper balance of nutrition, plus everything tastes so good there is a reward factor in eating.
The solution is . . . you choose, not your pet. What To Do About An Overweight Dog (Be sure your veterinarian evaluates Thyroid Gland function in any overweight dog or cat. Hypothyroidism is a very common instigator of excess weight in pets and this needs to be corrected or your attempts to reduce your pet’s weight will probably fail. So even if your veterinarian says thinks your dog doesn’t “look like a Hypothyroid case”, request the blood test for hypothyroidism anyway.)
First of all remember that research has shown that, in general, a healthy dog can abstain from food for five days before any noticeable health effects occur. They generally don’t HAVE to eat every day. (Very small breeds are an exception…but unless there’s really some medical problem present, missing a day of eating isn’t a major catastrophe.) Always be sure fresh water is available.
So start out by feeding a very high quality, complete and balanced dog food. Look on the ingredients list…MEAT should be the first item listed, not corn. You may also want to supplement with a vitamin/mineral/fatty acid product.
Now record an accurate pre-diet weight. Reduce by one-third your pet’s total daily ration previously given. Include in this total all treats, snacks, or left-overs if you insist on continuing to provide these. Reweigh the pet in 2 weeks. (Remember if the pet begs for food, that’s a good sign! But don’t give in. Read again if you have to about Type II) If you find upon weighing your pet after two weeks that it has lost even a little weight, you’re on the right track; keep up this schedule!
If no weight loss is evident, again reduce by one-third the amount being fed. Weigh the pet again in two weeks. Depending upon the results either keep feeding this amount or reduce again by one-third the total amount being fed. If you persist a good outcome is certain. Many veterinarians believe you should not feed the “Reduced Calorie” or “Lite Diets” or “Senior Diets”! These diets have very restricted fat levels to reduce the calories but by necessity have increased the carbohydrate percentages. This increased carbohydrate stimulates additional Insulin secretion which tells the body to store unused calories as fat! There are a multitude of overweight dogs that have actually gained weight on those “Reduced Calorie” weight loss diets. Your dog needs a meat-based diet, high in protein (which isn’t stored as fat) and fat and low in carbohydrate. Now… YOU have to adjust the quantity being fed to achieve a state where the dog takes in fewer total calories than it is using for the day’s energy requirements. Simple! It is also quite important to get everyone’s cooperation in restricting the pet’s intake. There is usually someone in the household who feels sorry for the dieting pet and surreptitiously provides “just a little” something extra.
More helpful would it be for the person to take the pet for a walk or a run to burn off a few calories. Keep in mind most overweight pets have a slow metabolism. They simply don’t burn off those calories very fast and in fact don’t generally have “eager eater” appetites. Because of this slow metabolism, though, they don’t require very much; so “just a little extra” will make a big difference over a period of time. Remember, high quality, meat-based food, control the amount fed, provide more exercise, and be persistent. Help your pet live a longer, leaner and more enjoyable life. Many types of dermatological problems are avoided if the dog or cat is consuming an optimum diet. In some cases, adding a supplement such as DermCaps, a popular Omega Fatty Acid supplement with a number of beneficial ingredients, is the key factor in avoiding repeated episodes of Hot Spots and other skin afflictions. If your dog or cat seems to lack good coat and skin health, consider upgrading the diet to a meat-based ingredient formula and adding a supplement such as DermCaps.
June 26th, 2006
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Even when we the dog owners occasionally groom our dogs, it is still necessary and indispensable to take them to the professional dog groomer or barber if we want them to look like the image of their breed. Although it is not easy to pinpoint which is the best dog groomer, you will need to find a groomer you feel comfortable and confident with. It’s usually recommended you yourself (without your dog at first) go to the barber yourself to see the people’s treatment with the dogs, the cleanliness of the place and obviously if you get a good feel off of it. This is suggested because the first visit to the groomer will have a strong impact on the dog if it is not an enjoyable one and it will determine how the dog will react in his future visits to the barber and grooming sessions. If you are not sure which place to choose, ask friends or neighbors that have dogs.
June 22nd, 2006
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The Field Spaniel requires a fair amount of grooming. A once or twice weekly brushing is needed, and every few months straggling hairs need to be scissored. Plucking is usually required to remove dead hairs, and the ears need to be frequently cleaned. Many owners prefer occasional trips to the groomer.
June 22nd, 2006
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You do tip your own hairdresser, don’t you? This is the same kind of courtesy - a 15% tip - to let your dog groomer know you’re happy with the style, care, and attention to detail she is peforming for your dog.
When I groomed dogs, I noticed a wide range of tipping behaviours in the Grooming Salon. Some people leave nice, big tips - which are gratefully accepted. Some people leave a dollar or two, which is still a very nice token of appreciation, and never considered cheap. Yet a lot of folks don’t tip at all, even when it’s apparent that they are very pleased with the services rendered.
Grooming is a skilled trade that takes years of perfecting to get right. There are the five basic clips - body contour, hand scissoring (poodle, bichon), the bladed body/fuller leg (schnauzer), short-legged terrier (westie, cairn terrier, scottie), long-legged terrier (wire fox, airdale), and sporting clip (cocker, springer). And then there are the myriad variations on these themes that make up both the extreme end (show clips), to the casual end (pet and so-called “puppy” clips).
The groomer must be skilled with both shear and clipper blade, dog handling, nail trimming, dematting tools, body washing and, of course, blowdrying techniques. She must be able to quickly analyze a pet’s skin and coat condition to select the proper shampoo and conditioner. There are as many kinds of treatments for dogs as their are for your own hair - from hypoallergenic oatmeal brands, to medicated dandruff shampoos, to those designed to brighten white fur or deodorize strong musky dog odors. She must be able to assess the condition of mats in the fur and recommend a proper cut to work with the owner’s own daily care regime.
Groomers can help an owner with questions about proper canine nutrition (a poor diet shows up on the skin first), show how to properly brush out the coat, and even help the owner develop a proper toothbrushing routine for their favorite furry friend.
Since the groomer works intimately with each dog over a series of hours, they can alert the owners to changes in the dog’s behaviours and body. Groomers might be the first to notice an oozing sore which might require a vet’s attention, cut a dew claw before it can grow around and into the footpad, note changes in warts and old wounds, and pull out thorns from doggie toes that could have become staph infections in time.
A really good groomer will also try to ensure your dog has a nice day at the salon. Being away from their owners can be stressful for pooches, and not every dog enjoys a good bath and blowout. They might be foot-shy, which makes clipping nails problematic. Head-shy dogs don’t like clippers or shears near their faces. It’s the groomer’s job to help the dog feel comfortable with the process, by using warm water, a gentle but firm hand, and soothing words through the process.
Many dogs come to enjoy being groomed. After all, they ARE being lavished with individual attention, something all canines crave. If an owner uses the same groomer each time, so much the better for the dog, who develops a bond with their own personal “hairdresser”.
Dogs who are clean, dry and looking good always know it. They act happier, more light and alert, than when they arrive. When the pet parent arrives to pick up their “child”, it’s always very exciting and rewarding - the dog is happy to see their family, be smelled and held and fawned over. The excitement spills over to the groomer, who has worked so closely with the pet. So, while a tip is never mandatory, it is still a nice gesture.
June 21st, 2006
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I don’t know how you do it,” my grooming clients say. “He just yelps and carries on like I am going to kill him!” Over the past twenty plus years as a groomer I have heard over and over again from my customers that they can’t get Fido to sit still long enough to brush him, never mind put up with a bath.
Guess what, the majority of the time they do it for me too. The reason I can get the lil’ darlin’ to mind is simple. Dogs, and especially spoiled dogs, are no different than children. They tend to test the babysitter and if they can get away with their antics, they will do everything to do so. In my shop they can’t. It is not because I use drugs to knock them out; however, I have had clients who have had the vet sedate their dog before coming to me.
(Generally, I find them even more difficult when sedated and harder to guess when they might snap as their reactions come without warning.)
The dogs discover that with gentle handling and a firm commanding voice, there is no choice for them but to behave.
Specialized equipment is essential. Without a grooming arm attached to the grooming table, I would require an extra set of hands. Most dogs don’t like company while being groomed and become even more agitated when there is more than one person handling them. Sometimes a Velcro muzzle will actually calm down a dog who is prone to nipping your fingers while you are detangling his coat or clipping his nails. When they realize that their teeth are rendered ineffectual they are forced to sit and watch.
Patience is key. Consistency will train him readily. Reward him with praise for good behavior and don’t allow bad behavior to go unchecked. If his struggles become a full blown war of wits between you both, then no one wins. Put him in a crate so you can cool off and he can calm down, but make certain you go right back and end with you accomplishing even the smallest victory. So today he sat through a half hour of brushing and you told him what a good boy he was; tomorrow you can stretch it out and maybe trim two nails. The most important part of training him for grooming is for him to relax so you can do the job. Once he can trust, it won’t hurt, and that, in fact, he even likes the attention, and then you can get the same results as you would by sending him to the groomer ( well almost, read previous articles on styling etc. for perfection).
Our devoted canine companions want nothing more out of life than to be with you and for you to be happy with them. They live to please us no matter if we pull tangles out of a matted coat or not. Not getting tangles out is more of a disservice to out four-legged friends that you can imagine, from skin problems to an even more nasty temperament due to being uncomfortable. So if you wouldn’t let your kids go without combing their hair, brushing their teeth or having a bath, Don’t let your dog get away with it either.
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June 21st, 2006
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Use your straight scissors to trim the skirt, longer toward the front & tapering off to the back.
Stand your dog and trim close around the feet so they look like ‘cat feet’. Lay your 
dog down on
his side and trim the hair on the bottom of the feet even with the pads.
Brush the feathers and skirt with the slicker brush to fluff them out, and use the horse hair brush
on the areas you shaved to get a nice sleek look.
Stand back and take a good look at your grooming job. If any areas look choppy you can smooth
Them out with the thinning shears. - Done! -
Remember, one good thing about grooming your English Cocker is their hair grows pretty quickly -
so anything you cut too short won’t stay that way long!
June 20th, 2006
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First put the ears up on top of the head in the loose scunchy - you don’t want to cut the hair on the ears by mistake! Tilt the head back, and shave with your #10 blade (no comb attached) from the neck area right up to the lower jaw. Make sure you shave off the hair around the mouth very close - it will keep the lips from getting infected by holding moisture and food. Hook your finger in the lip and pull it tight to get the blade close. Next shave the muzzle itself, from just below the eye right to the lips. Again, shave this area close. Take the scrunchy off the ears.
Shave close around the upper and lower lips, right back to the ear opening.
Shave the inside of the ears, about 1/3 way down. Shave close all the hair around the area where the ear attaches to the head, down to the mouth area. Removing this hair will open up the ears to air and hold down on infections.
On the outside of the ear, shave about 1/3 of the way down into a ‘v’ shape. 
Put on your 1/4″ spacing comb and shave the top of the head.
If your dog has very thick hair you can thin out the long feathers on all 4 legs with the thinning shears. Also use the thinning shears along the sides to blend the clippered area in with the skirt.
June 20th, 2006
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Next we will shave the hind leg area - you can use either the 1/4″ or 1/2″ comb, shave against the growth of hair, begin right above what would be his knee joint, and shave upward into the area you shaved the back coat off of. You only shave the outside flank of the rear legs, not the longer “feathers”. See red area outlined on picture.
Now, the front legs - shave from the foot upward, onto the shoulders, and into the back coat area using the same comb or blade you used on the back legs. You can use the soft scrunchy or snood on his ears at this point to hold them up from the area being groomed.
Keep the scrunchy nice and loose - don’t hurt your dogs ears. Do not shave the back of the legs.
If your dog is getting antsy, take another break, let your clippers cool down, next we will start the head/ears.
June 20th, 2006
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Annual Check up: Have a thorough annual check up of your pussy done by an experienced vet. This should include examination of the cat’s body, from nose to tail; weighing and taking its temperature; listening to the cats heart and lungs; checking for abnormal discharges from any bodily orifices, including eyes and nose; checking its teeth, gums and ears; inspecting for parasites and abscesses; feeling the cats internal organs. Stool test should also be conducted to test the presence of parasites.
Vaccination: Get your cat vaccinated against all the common diseases.
Excessive licking and grooming: Excessive licking and grooming can have several causes: stress, food allergies, and more. The first step is to take the cat to a vet to determine whether it’s a health or behavior problem. Many cats are allergic to corn, a main ingredient in most dried cat foods. If an allergy is suspected change the cat’s food and watch for improvements in your cat’s coat and behavior. Your vet can suggest brands of food that will help the most. If the licking is due to stress, try to remove the source, or simply manage the stress.
Poisonous House Plants: Be cautious when choosing houseplants for your home, if you have kitties or children. The Berries on Mistletoe are poisonous to cats and humans. Other dangerous plants to cats include: Diffenbachia, Poinsettia, English ivy, Crocus, and others.
Neutering/Spaying: Get your cat neutered or spayed preferably at the age of 6-7 months
Increased Thirst: Increased thirst is an indicator of diabetes, kidney or liver problems, and these are important to consider with the health care of an elderly cat. Although an older cat needs fewer calories and more fluids as he ages, it is better to consult a veterinarian and go for a thorough checkup.
Controlling Hairballs: Hairballs are a problem mostly in longhaired cats. Hairballs are caused by too much hair in the cat’s stomach from their own grooming. Daily brush your cat, especially during the warm months of the year to prevent hairballs. If the problem still persists take your cat to a vet.
Ear mite: Ear mites are highly infectious little pests that feed on the lining of the ear canals. Its symptoms include scratching behind the ear and inside the ear; a dark brown wax inside the ear; and other signs that are not visible without the special equipment a vet uses. Take the cat to a vet immediately if you suspect that she has an ear mite. Persistent medication is required to treat ear mites.
June 20th, 2006
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Myth: Cats always land on their feet.
Fact: While cats instinctively fall feet first and may survive falls from high places, they also may receive broken bones in the process. Some kind of screening on balconies and windows can help protect pets from disastrous falls.
Myth: Cats should drink milk everyday.
Fact: Most cats like milk, but do not need it if properly nourished. Also, many will get diarrhea if they drink too much milk. If it is given at all, the amount should be small and infrequent.
Myth: Cats that are spayed or neutered automatically gain weight.
Fact: Like people, cats gain weight from eating too much, not exercising enough or both. In many cases, spaying or neutering is done at an age when the animal’s metabolism already has slowed, and its need for food has decreased. If the cat continues to eat the same amount, it may gain weight. Cat owners can help their cats stay fit by providing exercise and not over-feeding.
Myth: Cats cannot get rabies.
Fact: Actually, most warm-blooded mammals, including cats, bats, skunks and ferrets, can carry rabies. Like dogs, cats should be vaccinated regularly according to local laws.
Myth: Indoor cats cannot get diseases.
Fact: Cats still are exposed to organisms that are carried through the air or brought in on a cat owner’s shoes or clothing. Even the most housebound cat ventures outdoors at some time and can be exposed to diseases and worms through contact with other animals feces.
Myth: Tapeworms come from bad food.
Fact: Pets become infected with tape worms from swallowing fleas, which carry the parasite. Also, cats can get tapeworms from eating infected mice or other exposed animals.
Myth: Putting garlic on a pet’s food will get rid of worms.
Fact: Garlic may make the animal’s food taste better but has no effect on worms. The most effective way to treat worms is by medication prescribed by a veterinarian.
Myth: Pregnant women should not own cats.
Fact: Some cats can be infected with a disease called toxoplasmosis, which occasionally can be spread to humans through cat litter boxes and cause serious problems in unborn babies. However, these problems can be controlled, if the expectant mother avoids contact with the litter box and assigns daily cleaning to a friend or other family member.
Myth: A cat’s sense of balance is in its whiskers.
Fact: Cats use their whiskers as “feelers” but not to maintain their balance.
Myth: Animals heal themselves by licking their wounds.
Fact: Such licking actually can slow the healing process and further damage the wound.
June 20th, 2006
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