Archive for June 14th, 2006
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The Reactive Barker – If your dog barks at just about anything, the wind perhaps or a falling leaf, he’s likely a reactive barker. Trying to train these dogs not to bark can be much harder. First, consult with your veterinarian to determine and address any medical contributions to this hyper-reactivity. This may include hypothyroidism or attention deficit hyperactivity disorder. Also make sure that your dog is getting an appropriate diet and adequate exercise. Otherwise, you can follow the same basic approach as you would for the territorial barker, though you may need to contribute a bit more time and effort.
Training your dog not to bark unnecessarily is part and parcel of training him to be a good and obedient companion. In this regard, obedience training and socialization from an early age is all that more important, providing a foundation to head off and/or deal with any potential problems that may arise in the future. Proper socialization will help to prevent your dog from having inappropriate reactions, in this case barking, to people, other dogs, different situations and the like. Obedience training will teach your dog basic commands like ‘No’ and ‘Sit/Stay’ that can later help you to deal with any behavior issues, in this case nuisance barking.
June 14th, 2006
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Whether you choose to let your dog on the furniture or not is really a matter of personal preference. There are pros and cons to each. If you let him on the furniture, your furniture will no doubt experience some extra wear and tear, not to mention dirt. Further, wherever you take your dog, such as to a friend or relative’s house, your dog will expect the same rules to apply. On the other hand, letting your dog up on the furniture often allows him to be closer to you. If you’re away, he may also find comfort in sitting on the couch or bed because it smells like you. And, of course, the furniture is no doubt more comfortable for your pooch than the floor is.
Whatever decision you make, the important thing is to be consistent. You cannot allow your dog on the couch one day and then reprimand him the next. Also make sure that every member of your family knows and sticks by the rules. If you or anyone else lets him up on the furniture, he may just think he’s welcome all the time.
If you decide to keep him off the furniture, first make sure that he has his own bed or other comfortable spot that’s all his own and located in a central area where he can be a part of the family. You can train your dog to get off the furniture using the ‘off’ command. This can be used when he jumps on furniture or people. You should not use the ‘down’ command if you’re using that command when you want him to lie down. If your dog gets on the furniture, say ‘off’ and then gently help him down. Once he is on the floor, reward him with a treat or your praise. Repeat this command and be consistent and patient and your dog will soon learn that he’s not allowed on the furniture.
June 14th, 2006
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Set up and enforce rules regarding proper pet care. For example, tell your children not to pull the animal’s tail, ears, or other body parts, and insist that they never tease, hit, or chase the pet. Teach children how to properly pick up, hold, and pet the animal. They need to be taught to be well-behaved and respectful around animals. They need to learn what kinds of games are appropriate, how to touch the dog properly, how to interpret the dog’s body language and when the dog is not to be disturbed. When they’re old enough to understand, kids should be involved in the training process. They should learn to give the dog commands and be able to enforce them. These simple lessons are essential to helping kids become responsible caretakers.
Living with a pet can be beneficial to children. Pets can enhance a child’s self-esteem, teach them responsibility and help them to learn empathy. However, children and dogs are not always going to automatically start off with a wonderful relationship. Parents must be willing to teach the dog and the child acceptable limits of behavior in order to make their interactions pleasant and safe. Families can live in harmony by teaching the dog and the child to mutually respect each other.
June 14th, 2006
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Groomers, by the very nature of the profession, have the best opportunity to evaluate the character of pets’ skin and coat. Using your senses of touch, vision, and smell, you will be able to detect deviations from a “healthy skin and coat,” and these changes should be noted in the pet’s chart and personally conveyed to the pets’ owners.
TOUCH
Normal touch: There will be a soft texture to the hairs and even in wiry coats such as in Airedales the character of the coat should be pliable and smooth.
Abnormal touch: The coat will be made up of dry, coarse, brittle hairs, some broken off, some very fine. The coat may be sparse and thinning or short and underdeveloped.
APPEARANCE
Normal appearing skin/coat: The skin will have a clean look to it and be free of scales, scabs and crusts. The coat should appear full, almost lustrous and have a soft look to it.
Abnormal appearing skin/coat: The skin will appear thin, dry and scaly or greasy. The coat will appear dull, lusterless or even dusty. It will have no “shine” to it and will have a harsh appearance.
SMELL
Normal skin/coat: A healthy skin and coat won’t have any smell to it. And even when dirty, will smell like whatever is making it dirty.
Abnormal skin/coat: An unhealthy skin and coat will have a rancid, oily odor; the odor is caused by superficial skin bacteria and their waste products breaking down the oils on the skin.
All skin surfaces have colonies of bacteria present. But an unhealthy skin surface harbors too many of the wrong kinds of bacteria. That is why many veterinarians recommend weekly shampoos with benzoyl peroxide for some dogs with chronic bacterial dermatitis. These types of shampoos keep bacterial numbers to a minimum.
The single most important determining factor in the healthy skin/coat equation is proper NUTRITION. No matter what else may be adversely affecting the skin/coat, such as allergies, infections, harsh environment, or parasites, the problem will be worse in a dog that is only barely meeting its nutrient requirements. And skin/coat problems are always less severe and occur less often in well nourished pets. Dogs are meat eaters. They will act, feel and look their best if fed a
diet whose first ingredient listed on the pet food label is MEAT, POULTRY. Diets that are based on grains such as corn will not properly nourish dogs.
Always recommend to the customer that they seek a veterinarian’s advice if you suspect a pet may have a nutritional deficiency. Be sure the customer understands that you are making an observation and merely suggesting that the owners may be helping their pet by having a veterinarian check something out.
The entire field of pet health nutrition is now only beginning to recognize the value and function of meat-based (poultry, beef, lamb) diets. Many well known brands of dog foods that have been around for years and whose foundation (the first listed ingredient on the label) is a grain such as corn, wheat, barley, or rice simply do not provide the health enhancing nutrients that meat-based diets provide. As a professional groomer your suggestions to the pet owner carries remarkable credibility. It is your obligation on behalf of the pet and as a pet health care professional to become familiar with high quality diets. Most veterinarians have had only superficial training in pet nutrition and often that training has been provided by representatives of various dog food companies.
Always note on your client chart what the pet is being fed. If you detect a less than optimum skin/coat condition, be sure to discuss with the owner your concerns about the pets nutritional status. Remember: if a pet doesn’t look good, it probably doesn’t feel good.
June 14th, 2006
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The most common medical ailment is “OTITIS. ” The root causes of ear trouble can run the full 
spectrum from contact irritants such as occurs from soaps, pollens, grass or carpeting, to infectious organisms such as yeast and bacteria, to parasites such as fleas and ear mites. Veterinarians further generally classify OTITIS as externa, media, interna depending upon which areas of the entire auditory system is affected. As a groomer you will see many cases of OTITIS externa and these will generally be either allergic otitis externa or microbial otitis externa.
Allergic otitis displays itself as reddened, inflamed ear tissues that feel warm (or even hot!) to the touch. These cases tend to be dry, and have only a mild odor with minimal build-up of wax, pus and debris. An allergic ear looks red and inflamed.
On the other hand infected ears - microbial otitis - because of the damage the bacteria and yeast are doing to the tissues of the ear, the ear canal and other affected tissues become moist and purulent (the medical term for pus.) That ear canal is a perfect incubator for microorganisms - dark, most, warm with a good supply of nutrients! If that ear canal sounds wet upon manipulation and has a foul odor, there is certain to be an infection present.
Always check with a veterinarian before plucking hairs from any ear structures that seem to be infected. Sometimes the ear problem requires sedation and cleaning. And chronic, severe cases of infected and scarred ear tissues often respond well to surgery to open up the canal for better exposure to the drying effects of air. Be sure to mention to the pet’s owner to have the ears checked if you suspect Otitis is present. The longer it goes on, whether it’s allergic or infectious, the more scar tissue forms and the more difficult it is to cure. And simple ear cleaners that work well to clean the waxy or oily ears won’t touch an infection and may further irritate allergic ears.
Shaving the hairs close with a #40 blade can be of help (keep that blade flat to the skin surface - not at an angle!). If the ear structures have a buildup of crusts or debris, eliminating the hair prevents the hairs from trapping the exudate and allows better contact of medications and facilitates the drying effects of air. So, in general, removing hair from infected tissues can be helpful.
June 14th, 2006
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The nails are a good indicator of the pet’s general state of health. Crooked, dry, cracking or pitted nails are a tip-off that the 
dog may have a fungal infection or be poorly nourished.
If you see abnormal nails, be especially watchful for areas on the skin where there may be circular, dry patches of hair loss. The dog may have “ringworm”, a fungal infection (called dermatophyte), that requires oral medication to correct.What you see externally may indicate an internal abnormality in the pet. And treatment entails discovering why the nails are diseased in the first place. Treating diseased toenails may extend over a few months.
And it is very important to notify a veterinarian if there is any pus or bleeding from the nail bed. Be cautions yourself NEVER to get any bloody, purulent (pus) discharge into contact with a cut or scratch on yourself. A serious fungal disease of dogs and humans called Blastomycosis often will show up first a draining lesion at the toenail bed.
We’ve all cut nails too short. It’s useful to use the Quick Stop powder as a coagulant, but there are other quite satisfactory methods to arrest the bleeding. A healthy dog’s toenail should clot on its own within 5-6 minutes, any longer than that warrants laboratory tests and veterinary analysis for clotting factors!
If you see large or overgrown nails that simple trimming won’t provide proper nail set, have a veterinarian take a look. The dog may require a “deep pedicure” under anesthesia to cut the toe nails back close.
Broken nails need to be trimmed back to the fracture site, then a coagulant applied. Pulled nails, ones that have been torn from the nail bed and all you see is a bloody circle at the end of the toe, do require a veterinary check. Antibiotics may be indicated.
June 14th, 2006